Devenish Island
Devenish Island is situated in the southern part of Lower Lough Erne, not far north of the modern town of Enniskillen. The island is 2km long, though quite irregularly shaped, being narrow at the top before broadening to a 1km wide base at the southern end of the island where the main monastic complex is located. The name Devenish derives from the Irish ‘Daimhinis’ meaning ‘Ox Island’, and with a little over 60 hectares of fertile soils, this drumlin island may have been an ideal pasture to graze. Devenish Island is best known for its early monastery, said to have been founded in the 6th century by St Molaise. Despite a number of the buildings being quarried for local buildings in the 18th and 19th centuries, visitors to the island today are still rewarded with one of finest round towers, medieval churches, an unusual medieval cross, and an Augustinian Priory. It is one of the best places to immerse yourself in the story of the early Irish church, medieval pilgrimage, and monastic life.
Naturally enough, the only way to visit Devenish Island is by boat. There are a number of options available, with local companies offering informative and enjoyable tours seasonally (for details and links, please see the Visitor Information box at the end of this article). I visited the site with a fellow archaeologist in September 2025. There is something quite special about standing at Trory Point, looking across the water to see the round tower soaring from the island like a spiritual lighthouse. I hope this article encourages you to make your own voyage. Tuatha Members can explore Devenish Island and a whole host of historical highlights with our Fermanagh Lakelands Itinerary.
For practical information about visiting this site Click Here
Devenish Island • Fermanagh
A Short History of Devenish Island
The founder of Devenish, St Molaise, also known as St Laisrén (both names deriving from the Old Irish ‘lasar’ meaning ‘flame’), is one of the most significant of the early Irish saints. His importance can be seen in that he was said to have been the chief judge who condemned the famous Colmcille into exile after the battle of Cúl Dreimne. As well as Devenish, Molaise is said to have been the founding saint of Inishmurray, another monastic island off the Sligo coast. Though it is important to note that Molaise/Laisrén, a little like Colmán, was quite a popular name for early Irish saints, and there can be confusion with the likes of the St Laisrén who founded the monastery at Leighlin in Carlow. This Molaise, according to tradition, was the son of Nad-fraích, chieftain of an Ulster dynasty, and Monoa, whose ancestors came from Tara. Together with his friend St Mogue, Molaise is said to have been a pupil of the great St Finnian of Clonard, who assisted in the concecration of Molaise’s church here on Devenish. Before he founded Daminis, Molaise is said to have made a pilgrimage to Rome and to have brought back clay and other relics including a bell and a gospel-book from his pilgrimage. While the manuscript has not survived, the reliquary box that housed it, known as the Soiscél Molaise, is on display in the National Museum of Ireland (you can find more on that below).
Devenish Island viewed from Trory Point • Fermanagh
St Molaise is said to have died in either 564 or 571, with his feast day on the 12th September (though often celebrated on Devenish on the 15th or 16th of September). The Augustinian canons who established a priory on Devenish chronicled the saint’s story, and the Life of Molaise survives in two forms, a short Latin version, and a later expanded version that likely dates to around 1500 (for more on the saint, it is well worth referencing the monumental Dictionary of Irish Saints by Pádraig Ó Riain).
His foundation at Devenish grew in importance, and it became a place of pilgrimage for people wishing to visit the grave of the saint. However, Devenish was also visited by some who came to prey rather than pray.
An ecclesiastical figure on the cross • Devenish
The Chronicon Scotorum recorded that in 822:
‘Daiminis and Corcach were plundered by the heathens (Vikings).’
In 837 the Annals of Ulster recorded that:
‘all the churches of Loch Erne, together with Cluain Eois (Clones, County Monaghan) and Daimhinis were destroyed by the gentiles (Vikings).’
In 924 the Annals of Ulster recorded again that:
‘A naval force of the foreigners (Vikings) went on Loch Éirne, and they ravaged the islands of the lake and the surrounding peoples, to and fro. They left Loch Éirne in the summer following.’
There appears to have been a merging of some degree with the great monastery of Clonmacnoise for at least a time in the 9th century. This is surmised as several of the annalistic references from the middle of the 9th century onwards record the deaths of men who served as abbots of both Devenish and Clonmacnoise, such as this reference in Chronicon Scotorum from 869 that reported ‘Martan, of the Dartraige of Daiminis, abbot of Cluain moccu Nóis and Daiminis, rested.’ Though that dual role appears to disappear by the 10th century.
There is little visible of the original churches and buildings of the early phases of the monastery, as they would likely have been made of wood. However, if you look carefully at the island using the satellite view in 3D on something like Google Earth or Bing Maps, it is possible to make out the earthworks and enclosures that would have been part of the earlier phases of the monastery. However, there are some other tangible aspects of Devenish Island’s early monastery, that you can still see today in the National Museum of Ireland (see below).
Devenish grew in importance over time, and became a focal point of pilgrimage both in its own right, and for those who were journeying through the waterways of Lough Erne on the way to St Patrick’s Purgatory on Lough Derg in County Donegal. Devenish became part of the Céile Dé (or Culdee) community and followed the teachings of Óengus of Tallaght.
It is clear that there was considerable investment at Devenish in the 12th century in particular, both in the form of some of the upstanding remains but also in the fragments of Romanesque-style architecture that have been sourced from the site (some of which is now on display in the Fermanagh County Museum at Enniskillen Castle). This investment may have been instigated by a great fire in 1157.
In around 1130, Augustinian Canons established a priory on Devenish Island. Unusually, they didn’t take over the original monastery, but set up their priory a little to the south west on higher ground. It appears as though the two monasteries co-existed as neighbours until they were suppressed in the 17th century.
Low skies silhouette the medieval cross • Devenish
Artefacts associated with Devenish – the Soiscél Molaise & Lough Erne Shrines
Arguably the most significant artefact from Devenish Island is the cumdach or book shrine known as the Soiscél Molaise (the Gospel Book of Molaise). It is believed to be the oldest of Ireland’s surviving early book shrines. An inscription records that the decorated case was commissioned by Cenfaelad, who served as abbot of Devenish, between 1001 – 1025, along with the name of the artisan who made it.
The Soiscél Molaise • Image © National Museum of Ireland
‘a prayer for Cennfaelad, the successor (comarba) of Molaisse, under whose auspices this shrine was made . .. complete and for Gilla Beathan, the wright who made the ornament.’
The front face is laid out as a ringed cross with rectangular terminals, with panels of gilt silver and gold filigree, framed by the silver grille of the cross. The figures represented in the panels are symbols of the four Evangelists, whose names appear in Latin on the margins.
In an informative paper on the Soicél Molaise, Raghnall Ó Floinn recorded how the shrine first came to the attention of the influential antiquarian George Petrie. Petrie stated that the shrine first came to his attention in 1835 when he read an account in a Sligo newspaper of a Petty Sessions case:
‘in which one party objected to the swearing of the other upon the Gospels, on the ground that the latter would not mind perjuring himself if thus sworn, but that he would be satisfied with the man’s oath if it were made on the Soisgeal Molaise. The trial was postponed until the shrine was produced in court, whereupon the defendant was unable to screw up his courage to the taking of the oath on this dreaded object, and so let judgement pass against him.’
Petrie learned from the hereditary keepers, the O’Meehan family, that in the late-18th century the shrine was lent to a priest named McLoughlin, who lived either in Sligo or Roscommon. It then contained “a manuscript on parchment” but when it was returned to its keeper the shrine had been damaged and the manuscript lost. The present location of this manuscript, or whether it still survives, is not known. However the beautiful shrine can still be seen in the National Museum of Ireland, where it can be found in the Fadden More Exhibition. A replica is also on display in Fermanagh County Museum in Enniskillen Castle, and you can find more information about the shrine in an article on the excellent website Fermanagh: A Story in a Hundred Objects.
Other early evidence can be seen in the reliquary shrines that were found by a fisherman in Lower Lough Erne in 1901. They are thought to date to the late 8th or early 9th century. The smaller more plain shrine was found contained inside the larger one. The shrines are made from yew, bronze and amber. They have hinged lids, that would have allowed access to the relics of the saint or venerated figure that they once held. The smaller may have been enclosed by the larger at a later stage as an additional form of protection and display of investment.
The form of the shrines has been described as either ‘tomb-shaped’ as they are similar to some sarcophagi, ‘house-shaped’, or ‘church-shaped’. I personally like the idea that they may represent a church. Up until the 10th–11th century, the majority of early Irish churches were made of oak. As no wooden churches have survived, small shrines like these may offer a clue of what an early Irish church may have looked like. These too can be seen in the National Museum of Ireland, where they are on display in the Treasury Exhibition.
The Lough Erne Shrines • National Museum of Ireland
As well as the shrines, the National Museum of Ireland also holds a small hand bell that was also found in the waters of Lough Erne close to Devenish. William Wakeman, who acquired the bell for George Petrie who donated it to the Royal Irish Academy, recorded (with some scepticism) the local tradition that:
‘the bells of the monastery are stated to have been thrown into the lake in order to preserve them from sacrilegious hands. Old cotmen declare that they have occasionally touched them with poles used for moving crafts against the current, or when there was little or no wind. The bells on these occasions are said to have emitted clear musical sounds.’
The discovery of a small bronze hand bell that may well have marked the day as it rang from the top floor of the round tower, or from the altar of a church, conjures a tangible impression of life in the early monastery.
The visible remains that we can see on the island today date from the 12th century onwards. The descriptions below are listed by the order in which you will likely encounter them on your visit to Devenish Island.
A Tour of Devenish Island
An Teampull Mór
After you land at the jetty, the first building you will likely encounter is An Teampull Mór (The Big Church). It is a long, rectangular building, likely built in the early part of the 13th century though it probably stands on the site of an earlier church. The church appears to have been extended at least once in its history. Despite much of its stonework being quarried, it is still possible to get a sense of the architecture, in the lancet window in the south wall with its roll mouldings in the transitional style between the Romanesque and Gothic architectural traditions.
In the north-west corner of the church you can see part of a stone sarcophagus of uncertain date, known as ‘St Molaise’s Bed’. A local tradition suggested that you could cure ailments by lying in the coffin and turning three times. I’d advise against it, for the health of both the stone and yourself. Residential quarters were added to the northern side of the church in the late medieval period. While the Maguire Chapel was added on the southern side, with a number of 17th century armorial slabs. An Teampull Mór endured as a parish church until the 17th century.
Teampull Mór, with the projecting Maguire chapel to the right, and the domestic quarters to the left. St Molaise’s House is in the foreground.
St Molaise’s House
St Molaise’s House
Decoration on the base of St Molaise’s House
Devenish Round Tower
Devenish Round Tower is one of the best examples of its type, described by Christiaan Corlett as ‘arguably the most perfect round tower in Ireland.’ It stands some 25m in height. It is well constructed from ashlar blocks of sandstone, with a round-headed doorway that faces north-east, likely towards an earlier church that was later replaced by Teampull Mór.
The most remarkable aspect of Devenish’s Round Tower is the unique frieze that circles the cornice at the top, just above the windows that face out to the cardinal directions. A finely sculpted face is carved above each window. Who the faces represent has been subject to debate. It may be the four evangelists, or possibly St Molaise along with the three patron saints of Patrick, Brigid, and Colmcille (though the relationship between Colmcille and Molaise is somewhat complicated as discussed above!)
Interestingly, this round tower is not the original. Excavations by Dudley M. Waterman in the 1970s revealed the foundations of another round tower to the north. An account recorded that all the churches of Devenish Island were burned in 1157. While this earlier round tower was not mentioned, it is reasonable to consider that it may have collapsed in this great conflagration, to be replaced by the fine round tower we see today. Another dark account records that in the year 1176: ‘Domhnall son of Amhlaoibh Ó Maoil Ruanaidh, king of Fir Mhanach, was burned by his own kinsmen in the round tower of Daimhinis.‘
The Round Tower • Devenish Island
The decorated cornice • Devenish Island
St Mary’s Priory
The priory of the Augustinian Canons Regular, more commonly known as St Mary’s Abbey, sits to the south-west on higher ground overlooking the main part of the earlier monastery. It is believed to have been founded as early as 1130, though it is recorded as having been reconstructed in 1449, and certainly most of the visible building dates to the 15th century.
The priory consists of a small nave and chancel church, with a later crossing tower that is likely to have been inserted around 1500 AD. A cloister is set to the north of the church, with a sacristy, refectory, and other buildings that exist at foundation level. There is a particularly fine doorway that leads from the church to the sacristy with hood moulding depicting two birds, that appears to be more of 16th century date.
Excavations were carried out from 1972–74 by Dudley M. Waterman, who uncovered much structural evidence along with traces of a fire that would have caused considerable damage some time between 1470 and 1520. The dig also recovered fragments of imported pottery from the Beauvais and Saintonge regions of France, Eschweiler in Germany, the Netherlands, Spain, as well as England and some locally made wares, demonstrating the benefits of being on such an important routeway as the Erne system.
The fine two-light east window with flowing tracery was taken from St Mary’s Priory on Devenish and moved to the nearby Church of Ireland parish church at Monea in the 19th century. Although I tend to prefer things to stay in their original context wherever possible, it was gratifying to see the window beautifully illuminated with stained glass, and with such an appropriate depiction of St Molaise on Devenish.
The elaborate doorway into the sacristy • Devenish Island
St Mary’s Augustinian Priory • Devenish Island
The Devenish High Cross
Unlike most of Ireland’s high crosses, that tend to date to between the 9th–12th centuries, this unusual high cross on Devenish is thought to date to around the 15th century. It was found in scattered fragments in 1874 and pieced back together. It bears a depiction of the crucifixion, along with vine leaves, which reference both the Tree of Life, and the Eucharistic element of Christ’s sacrifice.
Dr Jenifer Ní Ghrádaigh has identified stylistic similarities with the small, but elaborate, doorway into the sacristy of St Mary’s Priory and the window that was taken to Monea. This suggests a date of around 1520–40, and may indicate it was commissioned by Cúchonnacht Maguire, King of Fermanagh (d. 1537).
The ‘High’ Cross • Devenish Island
Upper left: a view of the round tower through the accommodation at Teampull Mór • Lower left: interior and exterior view of the window from St Mary’s now at Monea Church • Right: Molaise’s Bed
Top: a view of the round tower through the accommodation at Teampull Mór • Middle: Molaise’s Bed• Bottom: interior and exterior view of the window from St Mary’s now at Monea Church
Devenish Island Visitor Information
A wonderful example of an early monastic foundation surrounded by the peaceful waters of Lough Erne.
