rydra_wong (![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
rydra_wong) wrote2021-06-24 03:55 pm
rydra_wong) wrote2021-06-24 03:55 pm
Lor Sabourin!
Filed under "things I meant to post about ages ago but didn't because pandemic":
In Feb, Lor Sabourin became the first non-binary climber to send 5.14a trad (that'd be high-end E9 or low E10, for UK climbers; for non-climbers -- hard! scary! notable!).
They have some complicated feelings about that being the headline and the ensuing publicity, but from my perspective it meant I heard about them for the first time and they're awesome.
Lattice Training: Interview with Lor Sabourin - Training The Climber's Mind -- has a lot of stuff on working with fear which may be relevant to non-climbers also.
Enormocast ep 221: Lor Sabourin -- Being Themself (content note: discussion of an assault related to their gender identity, body dysphoria, and the ongoing attacks on the rights of trans kids in the US)
Side-note: I kind of love how fundamentally self-interested climbers are when it comes to recruiting other climbers into our personal climbing shenanigans, especially when it comes to niches like crack-climbing and (even more niche) offwidths. Kalous is plotting to meet up and work on shared crack objectives with them, and Randall is all GO TO WHITE RIM LOR YOU HAVE TO GO TO WHITE RIM WHAT EXACTLY IS YOUR HAND SIZE I AM ALREADY MAKING A ROUTE LIST COME AND HELP DEVELOP THIS AREA. True acceptance = mutual exploitation.
Power Company Climbing: Lor Sabourin | Finding Joy in Improbable Goals
Anyway here's a spectacular photo of Lor going fully inverted on an offwidth in Arizona:
https://www.climbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/photo-by-irene-yee-m60c6798_im-web.jpg
In Feb, Lor Sabourin became the first non-binary climber to send 5.14a trad (that'd be high-end E9 or low E10, for UK climbers; for non-climbers -- hard! scary! notable!).
They have some complicated feelings about that being the headline and the ensuing publicity, but from my perspective it meant I heard about them for the first time and they're awesome.
Lattice Training: Interview with Lor Sabourin - Training The Climber's Mind -- has a lot of stuff on working with fear which may be relevant to non-climbers also.
Enormocast ep 221: Lor Sabourin -- Being Themself (content note: discussion of an assault related to their gender identity, body dysphoria, and the ongoing attacks on the rights of trans kids in the US)
Side-note: I kind of love how fundamentally self-interested climbers are when it comes to recruiting other climbers into our personal climbing shenanigans, especially when it comes to niches like crack-climbing and (even more niche) offwidths. Kalous is plotting to meet up and work on shared crack objectives with them, and Randall is all GO TO WHITE RIM LOR YOU HAVE TO GO TO WHITE RIM WHAT EXACTLY IS YOUR HAND SIZE I AM ALREADY MAKING A ROUTE LIST COME AND HELP DEVELOP THIS AREA. True acceptance = mutual exploitation.
Power Company Climbing: Lor Sabourin | Finding Joy in Improbable Goals
Anyway here's a spectacular photo of Lor going fully inverted on an offwidth in Arizona:
https://www.climbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/photo-by-irene-yee-m60c6798_im-web.jpg
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What... are.. they... doing, there?
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Pamela Shanti Pack explains:
https://www.climbing.com/skills/learn-this-invert-offwidth-technique/
I'm just going to see if I can find some good videos ...
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOlLYFPQlvk
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Also: Oh, lordy.
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Also yes, this is why offwidth climbing is regarded as an especially masochistic niche populated by a very small group of weirdos (I can say this because of my own filthy offwidth inclinations), and why said weirdos tend to stick together when they find each other.
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https://www.outsideonline.com/2422874/professional-climber-jordan-cannon-comes-out-gay
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For more sweetness, the Enormocast ep with Jamie Logan is really lovely:
https://enormocast.com/2018/11/episode-164-jamie-logan-owning-her-identity/
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https://runoutpodcast.com/index.php/2021/05/03/runout-61-jordan-comes-out/
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And obviously I relate to some of this across the metaphorical Dolomites, and having more room for gender diversity in climbing is a thing I feel personally about.